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LYMAN BLACK POWDER HANDBOOK PDF

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Congratulations on purchasing your new Lyman Black Powder Gun. All of our You will find this book to be a handy tool reference and a good source for the. Lyman Dear Black Powder Shooter: Congratulations on purchasing your new Wear safety glasses when shooting black powder firearms. Fadala Lyman introduces the Black Powder Handbook that muzzleloaders have been waiting for. Buy Lyman Black Powder Handbook & Loading Manual, 2nd Edition: Tweezers - resourceone.info ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases.


Lyman Black Powder Handbook Pdf

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If you're having a conversation about muzzleloaders or blackpowder, sooner or later the name Hunting, The Complete Blackpowder Handbook (editions 1 and 2), The Gun Digest Blackpowder The Lyman caliber Minie, Mould No. By Sam Fadala. Lyman Black Powder Handbook and Loading Manual: All New 2nd Edition, the world's foremost black powder manual. Includes thousands of. There are four key rules to always be aware of when shooting Black Powder . about the loads and patches to use, see the Lyman Black Powder manual. Filler.

The front and rear sight combine to produce the very efficient "Patridge" sighting configuration which is perfect for most hunting and target shooting. Finished Sight Primitive Rear Sight-This is a traditional one piece, fixed sight which allows final shape and elevation adjustments to be filed into it by the shooter. Windage adjustments are made by tapping the rear sight to the left or right as you wish the bullet's impact to shift. Once you have settled on the bullet and charge level, the filing can begin.

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You may find the unaltered rear sight is just fine. However, you may discover that you are shooting high-even with the front sight blade buried in the rear sight notch. If that is the case, then here's what you do: File the top of the sight flat until you reach the correct elevation for your selected load. The correct procedure is to file a bit then shoot; file-shoot and so forth until the rifle shoots to the desired point of impact.

With the sights set correctly, now is the time to deepen or widen the rear sight notch if you wish. Use a cold blue solution to re-blacken the sight. The result is a traditional rear sight which utilizes the very practical and efficient "Patridge" configuration-excellent for hunting or target work. Windage adjustments may be made by "drifting" the rear sight in the direction you wish to move bullet impact.

The rear sight notch width and front blade width are designed to provide a very fine target sight picture. You may widen the rear notch with a jeweler's file if you wish. Use a cold blue solution to re-blacken the sights after filing to eliminate glare. This open rear sight is equipped with an adjustable elevation blade which is held firmly in place by two lock screws.

In order to change the point of impact, loosen the two lock screws holding the rear sight elevation blade. Raising the elevation blade will raise the point of impact. Lowering the elevation blade will lower the point of impact. Tighten the lock screw when the elevation blade is in the desired location. In order to make windage adjustments, the entire rear sight can be carefully "drifted" to the right or left.

Use a punch made from a soft material such as brass, and strike the base of the sight only. Never strike the folding leaf. Windage adjustments are made by moving the sight in the direction you wish the ball to go.

In adjusting any type of iron sight, the following principles hold true: Adjust the rear sight in the direction you wish to move the bullet's impact. Adjust the front sight exactly opposite the direction you wish the bullet's impact to shift.

To meet the needs of today's black powder enthusiast, Lyman offers a number of alternative sight packages which can improve accuracy for the serious target shooter or hunter. Minor drilling and tapping required depending on manufacturer.

The 57 GPR has the same specifications as the 57 SML described above, however, is equipped with an adapter base that fits the tang angle of Great Plains rifles. Designed for use with dovetail slot mounting, the sight is supplied with seven interchangeable inserts that are locked into place with a threaded cap. The 16 Folding Leaf Sight is adjustable for elevation and the leaf can be folded out of the way when the rifle is additionally equipped with a receiver sight.

The conditions include adjustment to prevent the pin from falling out if the fit is loose, or the removal of a small amount of material if the wedge pins do not enter completely through. If the wedge pin is too loose fig. Gently tap the bar with a hammer while rolling bar back and forth fig.

Check fit by installing bar- rel in stock and installing wedge pin. Repeat as necessary. Proceed very carefully since this operation can be overdone quickly. Wedge pins can on occasion hang up on the inside of the left side escutcheon, To correct this, remove RIGHT side escutcheon and secure in a vise.

Use a small jewelers file to remove material from the top of the slot in which the wedge pin slides through. Check fit by placing in cavity it is not necessary to screw in place and inserting wedge pin. This will ease entry of the wedge pin. This "Great Plains" rifle was designed and built by such famous makers as Hawken, Gemmer and Demick to the specifications of experienced backwoodsmen.

Only the best and most reliable designs and finest workmanship were acceptable. Today, as in the 's, the experienced black powder shooter is looking for a very special rifle. The Lyman Great Plains Rifle, with its graceful, yet sturdy lines, is such a gun.

The modern muzzleloader will appreciate its combination of strength, reliability, accuracy and authentic good looks. It is truly a black powder gun of remarkable significance. Each Great Plains Rifle offers such high quality features as a 32", 1 in 60" twist barrel for patched ball and hunting loads, double set triggers, Hawken style percussion "snail" with clean out screw and reliable coil spring lock with correct lock plate. All guns come with walnut stocks and darkened steel furniture.

The Great Plains Hunter features a 1 in 32" fast twist barrel for corneals or sabots. Breechplugs and barrels not sold separately, only as factory-assembled units. Part Dwg. Part Pc. Number Description Pc.

Screw 4 Rib Screw 16a Adj. Rear Sight complete 6 Cleaning Jag. Flint 11 Tang Screw rear 17h L. Flint 17n GPH Barrel. Lock Assembly 29 Trigger Guard 5c L. Lock Assembly Flint 30 Trigger Assy. The rear wedge is slightly longer than the front wedge and is installed closest to the lock.

Both wedges are installed from the right to the left. This is true for right or left-hand rifles. Sights are also installed from the right to the left. Sights are removed from the left to the right. Lock assembly for percussion and flintlock rifles shown on page This system provides either a standard trigger for snap shots while hunting or a more sensitive "set" trigger for precision shooting. To engage the set trigger pull the hammer back to full cock, squeeze the rear trig- ger until a "click" is felt, then carefully aim and press the front trigger.

Be careful-don't let the light pull catch you by surprise! You may fire the rifle without engaging the set trigger by using only the front trigger.

Turning the adjustment screw 51 clockwise will lighten the set trigger pull; turning the screw counter-clockwise will increase it. The range of adjustment is limited by Lyman to prevent the set trigger from being lightened to the point where we feel it would be unsafe.

Use common sense in this adjustment and in the use of the trigger mechanism. Designed by such companies as Henry and Leman, these original guns were much sought after by trappers, Indians and other rugged wilderness survivors. These men wanted a basic hunting gun that combined the best attributes of a hunting rifle without the expensive frills of more ornate rifles. The Trade Rifle is designed to accurate- ly fire both patch round ball and maxi style conical bullets. It features a 28" octagon barrel with 1 in 48" twist, polished brass furniture, steel rib and blued finish on all steel parts.

The single trigger is spring loaded for positive ten- sion. Each rifle includes both fixed "primitive" and elevation adjustable rear sights. The optional 57 SML can be mounted without any modifications. Number Description 4 Cleaning Jag.

Breechplugs and barrels not sold separate only as factory-assembled units. The wedge is installed from the right to the left. Lock assemblies for percussion and flint rifles shown on page Components Dwg. Trigger assembly as shown above is the same for both the Trade Rifle and Deerstalker. Like all Lyman black powder guns, the Deerstalker has an impressive collec- tion of top-quality rifle features. The rich walnut stock is specially designed with less drop for improved sight picture and includes a handsome rubber pad to lessen recoil.

The barrel and all metal parts are blackened to avoid glare. Whether flint or percussion, all Lyman locks employ a rugged, reliable coil mainspring. The barrel has a 1 in 48" twist which will handle a large range of bullet types and weights. The Deerstalker combines these traditional qualities with the modern features that the serious hunter demands. Each rifle features a specially designed stock with Lyman front and rear hunting sights for an improved sight picture.

The shorter barrel and lighter weight make it ideal for carrying on an all day hunt. All hardware is darkened for low glare and all rifles come with sling swivel studs and a handsome rubber pad to reduce recoil. The ultra quiet single trigger is fast and efficient. Finally, all Deerstalker Rifles are factory pre-drilled and tapped for an optional Lyman 57 Receiver Sight for the most serious target shooter or hunter. Barrel and Sight Group 7 Components Dwg.

Number Description la Cleaning Jag. Flint 8d Barrel. Stock 16b L. Lock Assembly 24 Escutcheon 16c L. Trigger assembly for Deerstalker same as Trade Rifle shown on page Lock assemblies for Lyman rifles shown on page Recommend conical or sabots for this model. These are nominal specifications for general information only. The actual dimensions of a given gun may vary several thousandths of an inch.

It is often necessary to experiment with several ball diameters and patch thicknesses to find the one best for your application. All major metal parts such as the barrel, trigger guard, lock assembly, escutcheons, and wedge are stainless steel for the greatest protection against black powder fouling and weather. The Deerstalker stainless models uses a 1 in 32" twist barrel for shooting corneals and sabots.

Stainless parts have brushed finish to prevent glare. Breechplugs and barrels not sold separately, only as factory- assembled units. The exterior is finely finished and color case-hardened as were the guns of years ago. Inside, the lock is a redesigned system featuring a coil mainspring 42 instead of the traditional leaf spring. This is a much more durable mainspring, one that is not prone to the breakage problems encountered with the flat leaf springs.

Number Description 38 Bridle Screws 44a L. Sear 41a L. Hammer 44 Tumbler 49 Sear Screw Note: Pull hammer to full cock before removing lock assembly from the stock.

Wood damage will result if this is not done. Number Description 1 Bridle Screw 10a L. Lock Plate 12a L. All steel parts on the finished gun are polished and blued - except for the belt hook. The percussion lock is hardened internally with a color-case hardened lockplate and hammer on both the kit and finished gun. Your Plains Pistol is designed to fire a tightly patched roundball accurately at various charge levels.

Do not shoot conical bullets, such as the "Maxi" or Minie ball. The conical bullets are very heavy, compared to a patched round-ball, and are very likely to slip towards the muzzle if the loaded pistol is carried on the belt. The resultant space between bullet and powder could produce a bulged or burst barrel under certain conditions.

Breech plugs and barrels not sold separately, only as factory-assembled units. Pistol Tang Screw-Pl. Pistol Barrel. Pistol Stock kit -Pl. Shooting Caution: Do not carry your loaded Plains Pistol with a percussion cap on the nipple.

This is just as unsafe as carrying a single-action revolver with a primed chamber under the hammer - even if the hammer is on the safety notch. Proper assembly will enable you to create a muzzle- loading firearm having the quality lines of an expensive custom piece. Read these instructions thoroughly before you actually begin assembly. There are several critical steps - and others that will save considerable time within the instructions.

Reading the instructions will give you a better under- standing of the task and allow you to mentally sequence the events before beginning work. You will find this book to be a handy tool reference and a good source for the material you cannot find locally.

Brownells Inc. Rasps- You will need a straight rasp for rough shaping the exterior of the stock to final dimensions. The "Surform" tools produced by Stanley will do a satisfactory job. Sand Paper-Grades 80 through You will find that most, if not all, the major parts will fit properly with no additional inletting required.

However, we have chosen to be very meticulous and present the inletting of each part with greater detail and emphasis than is likely to be required. Throughout these instructions you will be instructed to "blacken"the part prior to inletting, then to look for the black transfer marks, indicating where excess material is to be removed. These instructions refer to a technique where a part is coated with a transfer agent such as soot, Prussian Blue, lipstick or similar substance then inserted into the semi-inletted stock and lightly tapped into place.

When the part is removed, the transfer agent will remain on the stock showing where wood is to be removed or the fit is perfect. If you have never inletted a stock before, it is important for you to realize the presence of a black transfer mark does not automatically indicate removal of material.

Assume that you are inletting the lock assembly. After you remove the lock for the first time you will note the black transfer marks in the cavity. Little black will be apparent around the edges of the lock. Black marks will be located within the cavity showing where wood is to be removed to allow the working parts of the lock to fit.

You will continue to coat the part with transfer agent, reinsert it into the cavity, continue inletting gradually dropping the lock into place. As the lock is lowered into position the edge of the lock plate will come into contact with the stock. At this time you must proceed very slowly. Wood is actually shaved from the cavity where the edge of the lock plate meets the stock.

When the lock plate is properly inletted, light transfer marks will be apparent around the edges of the cavity. If these light transfer marks were to be removed you would create gaps between the edge of the lock plate and the surface of the stock, a condition that is not desirable.

There are two simple ways to obtain a suitable transfer agent. One is to coat the part with soot from a smoking candle. The smoke from the candle flame is played on the part.

This technique is very effective when fit- ting metal to metal. Add a few drops of oil at the wick base if your candle does not smoke enough. The second way to obtain a transfer agent is to pur- chase a bottle of "inletting black" from a gunsmith supply house. The barrel is to be partially finished first so that it can be readily inletted into the stock. Draw Filing the Barrel-Draw filing is used primarily to shave away the tool marks left on the barrel by the precision milling operation; secondarily to dress the patent breech to the barrel.

During draw filing, the file is held such that it makes a right angle with the axis of the barrel refer to Figure 1. Holding the file with both hands, it is lightly drawn down the entire length of the barrel, shaving metal away as it travels. Start at the muzzle and draw the file towards you, making sure that the file is held flat against the barrel.

Do not allow the file to rock side to side during the draw, as this will cause rounded edges. Continue filing, one flat at a time, until each flat of the barrel is completely free of milling tool marks, and the breech plug is flush with the barrel flats. Take your time. When the draw file has been completed, lightly oil the entire barrel to prevent rust.

The final polishing of the barrel will be done after all inletting has been completed. Fitting the Tang to the Breech Plug-The tang and the lug on the breech- plug may require hand-fitting to provide the proper fit when the barrel is hooked into position.

This step is often unnecessary as it is factory fitted. A slight amount of pressure to make contact is desired. You will note that when the tang is first installed onto the breech plug it may not lie flat, in contact with the rear of the breech plug. The idea now is to carefully file away the surface "A" of the breech plug lug until the tang mounts flush with the plug with a small amount of pressure applied. Over-cutting of the top surface will cause the tang to fit loosely and may affect accuracy.

Blacken the entire surface of the projecting lug on the breech plug. Hook the tang onto the lug. Remove the tang and examine the upper surface of the lug. White marks soot rubbed away will indicate where excess metal is to be filed away.

Carefully file away excess metal, reblacken the lug and hook the tang back into position. Repeat the filing and fitting process until the top flat of the tang is parallel with the top flat of the barrel.

Inletting the Stock-The stock of your Lyman muzzleloader is a very delicate piece of wood, and requires considerable care when metal parts are fitted to it. Pressure incorrectly applied when inletting could well result in a cracked stock.

The areas of the tang, barrel breech and the lock are particularly delicate. Large amounts of wood have been removed from these areas to accommodate hardware.

These areas are very likely to be damaged if improper care is taken during the inletting process. The following instructions describe how to proceed during each critical step. With reasonable care, good results will be obtained. Blacken the underside of the bushing and press it into its stock cavity.

Remove the bushing and carefully cut away excess wood within the cavity. Continue the process until the bushing is completely inletted and bottoms in the cavity. Should the bushing become stuck in position before inletting is complete, it can be easily removed by inserting the lock screw into the screw hole from the lock cavity side of the stock, and carefully tapping out the bushing.

Inletting the Lock Assembly-First, draw the hammer back to full cock. Apply transfer agent to plate edges. Position the lock over its cavity in the stock. Insert the lock mounting screw and slowly tighten it, drawing the lock down into posi- tion. Draw down only until resistance is met. Remove the lock and examine the cavity for black transfer marks. Carefully cut away excess wood.

If you remove too much wood from the inner surface where the stock and the edge of the lock plate meet, unsightly gaps will result. Remove only small amounts of wood at a time. Do not over-tighten the lock screw when drawing the lock into position. If the cavity has not been fully inletted, the lock will act as a wedge and a cracked stock will result. Continue the inletting process until the lock has been inletted to a point where the surface of the lock plate is just above the surface of the stock.

Final inletting will take place later. Inletting the Tang and Barrel Assembly-Remove the forend cap from the stock. Install the lock.

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Carefully note the position of the bolster on the breech plug with regard to the circular cutout on the lock. It should align closely. If further inletting is needed, blacken the underside of the tang and set it into position, noting with a pencil mark. Carefully tap into place, then remove and cut away excess wood. During the course of this inletting, periodically install the barrel on the tang to check for bolster alignment with the lock. Once the tang has been inletted to near full depth, proceed by inletting the barrel and tang as an assembly.

Blacken the undersides of both the barrel and tang. Cut away any excess wood from both the tang area and the barrel channel until the assembly is fully inletted, and the bolster makes contact with the circular lock plate cutout.

When this contact has been made, remove the lock and continue inletting to full depth. The barrel wedge s can be inserted into the barrel tenon s. A slight amount of pressure should be required to insert the wedge s. Note that on the Great Plains Rifle the longer wedge should be installed closest to breech. Set the tang and barrel into position, note the location of the two tang screws They should line up with the holes in the tang. When complete, mount the tang in position. Hook the barrel to the tang and install.

Do not force the barrel down. You may find that additional inletting behind the breech plug is required to clear the breech hook, allowing the barrel to pivot. Plains Pistol: Set the tang and barrel into position and, when complete, mount the tang in position. The single tang screw goes through a pre-drilled stock hole and anchors in a threaded hole in the top of the trigger plate. Make sure the screw aligns properly so the tang screw threads won't be stripped.

At this stage you should complete inletting of the lock to its full depth so the inside shoulder of the lock makes solid contact with the side flat of the barrel, and the bol- ster of the breech plug fits properly into the circular cutout of the lock. Install the lock assembly. Blacken the underside of the bolster and reinsert the barrel assembly in the stock. The barrel may not go back into its fully inletted position. If not, the interference will be caused by the bolster being slightly out of position with the circular cutout of the lock refer to figure 3.

Remove the barrel and exam- ine the underside of the bolster for interference marks. Carefully file away excess metal on the bolster, using a rotation motion as you file. Repeat the blackening and trial fit process until the barrel has been returned to its fully inletted position. Proper fit is achieved when there is a slight clearance between the bolster and the circular cutout. At final assembly the lock must be able to be removed with the bar- rel in position.

Flintlock Note: The lock must contact flat of barrel to prevent priming powder from collecting inside lock. If ignited, this powder will explode, ruining the rifle and probably causing injury. Install the barrel using the barrel wedge to hold it in place.

Remove the lock assem- bly and blacken the underside. Continue the inletting of the lock until the inside shoulder of the lock is in full contact with the side flat of the barrel. When the lock has been fully inletted, carefully pull the hammer back to check for interference with internal working parts. The lock should cock freely.

If resistance is felt, exam- ine the lock cavity to ensure that all rotating parts have clearance. Inletting the Trigger Assembly-Blacken the underside of the trigger assem- bly. Insert the assembly to the rear of the trigger cavity. Remove the trigger assembly and cut away excess wood.

Continue the inletting process until the trigger plate has been inletted slightly below the surface of the stock. Locate the position of the trigger assembly mount screw. Install the trigger assembly. Make certain that the hammer is in the down position. Check triggers for freedom of movement. Great Plains Rifle-Set the rear trigger and release the set trigger by pulling on the front trigger.

If both triggers operate freely, you have adequate clearance. If not, remove the trigger assembly, examine the cavity for black transfer marks and cut away interfering wood. Plains Pistol-Secure the trigger assembly by installing and tightening the tang screw. Inletting the Trigger Guard-Great Plains: Use a mill file and carefully remove any burrs from around the bottom edges of the two flats of the trigger guard.

The outer edges should be completely finished before inletting. The exterior surface of the trigger guard can be finished later. Blacken the underside of the two flats of the guard, and insert the guard into its cavity. Remove and cut away excess wood.

Continue the inletting until the trigger guard has been inletted flush with the surface of the stock. Install the trigger guard. Your Plains Pistol Kit has the trigger guard factory-installed. No holes need be drilled by the builder and little, if any, inletting will be necessary.

However, some fitting of the trigger guard over the trigger assembly may be necessary to permit the trigger guard to return to its original position, flush with rifle stock. If such fitting is necessary, spot and file the underside of the brass trigger guard as needed. However, the correct fit is flush with the finished stock. After the stock has received its final sanding, the trigger guard can be removed for final polish and later installation on the stained and finished stock. Inletting the Butt Plate Rifles Only and Forend Cap-Both the butt plate and nose cap have been factory-installed to protect the exposed ends of the stock.

Additional fitting may be necessary for perfect fit. Remove the butt plate and blacken the underside. Then remove and cut away excess wood. Continue this process until no wood-to-metal gaps are apparent.

Final fitting will take place when the stock is shaped. In some instances, only a minor amount of metal prevents an excellent fit. Judicious filing and spotting often causes the butt plate to fit perfectly with little or no wood removal. The forend cap is inletted in the same manner with an additional operation required.

Once the forend cap has been fully inletted, install the barrel. Note any interference between the cap and barrel, and carefully file away excess cap metal. Inletting the Escutcheons-Place the barrel in the stock. Each escutcheon is inletted separately using the barrel wedge as a locating guide. Blacken the underside of an escutcheon plate. Place the plate in position over its cavity and insert the barrel wedge. Lightly tap the wedge down to hold the plate in position.

Do not overdo this or the plate will be deformed. Check the plate for position and make sure the cavity is completely covered by the plate. Select a knife with a small, thin blade and carefully cut a line around the edge of the plate.

Use only the point of the blade and position the knife so the cut is angled toward the center of the plate. Remove the plate and, using the knife cut as a guide, cut away excess wood directly to the bottom of the cavity. Make certain the cuts stay slightly to the inside of the knife scribe mark. Repeat the process for the second plate. Pilot holes are not required for the escutcheon plate screws.

Use the point of a knife or small nail to locate the center of the hole and install the screws. Finishing the Barrel-When the barrel has been completely inletted into the stock, work may proceed with final finishing of the barrel.

The draw filing operation is now to be followed by successive passes of polishing with abrasive paper. First, select a medium-coarse grit emery paper, followed with successively finer grits up to grit wet or dry paper.

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Wrap a piece of the grit around the file used to draw-file the barrel. The draw-polishing is accomplished in the same manner used to draw-file the barrel.

Polish all flats, including the breech plug, until a satisfactory polish has been achieved. Metal Coloring-All steel fittings except the lock and trigger assembly , including the barrel, of your Lyman muzzleloader require some form of metal finish, These may be polished with successively finer grades of emery paper or left as is prior to finishing depending on the builder's taste.

Traditionally, rifles and pistols of this type had the "iron mountings" browned. The kit builder may choose to cold blue these parts if he prefers a more modern type of finish. Metal finishing can be accomplished by dismounting all the steel parts from the stock and applying the metal finish according to the chemical manufacturer's instructions.

The ramrod thimbles on the Great Plains Rifle, and Plains Pistol are soldered to the barrel rib in the same fashion as many originals. Since some browning solutions require the use of heat, caution should be used to assure the part is not heated enough to loosen the soldered bond. Sight Assembly-Install the front sight and rear sight by drifting each into place using a brass or nylon punch so as not to damage them. These are installed right to left. Wood Finishing-The stock has been machined in the traditional style of the period.

However, sufficient wood has been left in most areas to allow individual styling of your kit. When you have shaped the stock to a point slightly above the surfaces of any inletted metal parts, follow this operation with rough sanding using 80 grit paper. When sanding, follow the wood grain whenever possible.

Final sanding should be done using grits through , in succession to remove tool and sanding marks. When you have completely sanded the stock using grit paper, carefully examine the stock surface. It will be completely free from scratch marks caused by rougher grits of paper. If all of these marks are not removed at this time, they will show through the finish and detract from the overall quality.

When the stock has been completely sanded smooth, wet down the entire surface with a damp cloth and raise the grain of the wood. Let the stock dry and once again lightly sand the stock surface with grit paper. Sand off only the raised grain. Moisten the stock again and repeat the process, only this time follow the grit paper with a light sanding using grit paper.

The stock is now ready for final finishing. The European Walnut stock, as supplied, will finish to a nice warm brown color if finished without the use of a darkening stain. The wood of most old muzzleloading rifles and pistols was very dark in color. Select a walnut stain and follow the directions provided with the product.

Stain the stock until you achieve the desired color. We recommend the use of a water stain such as produced by the Birchwood Casey Co. These stains can be found in most gun shops. The stock can be sealed by applying a commercial stock finishing solution such as linseed or Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil.

Follow the directions on the container.

You must read this material in order to use your Lyman muzzleloader in a safe, responsible manner. If you decide to sell, trade or loan your Lyman muzzleloader, be sure the new operator receives the User's Guide. Free copies are available from Customer Service if the original booklet has been misplaced.

No other factory assembled rifle or kit offers the authentic style and design of Lyman's Great Plains Rifle. This classic muzzleloader offers such high quality features as a 32" barrel with 1 in 60" twist for patched ball and hunting loads, double set triggers, Hawken style percussion "snail" with clean out screw, separate ramrod entry thimble and nose cap, and reliable coil spring lock with correct lock plate. Available in. Factory assembled or kit form.

Great Plains Rifle Flintlock Lyman Plains Pistol Lyman Plains Pistol recreates the trapper's pistol of the mid- 1 ' s while incorporating the best of modern steels and technology.

It's the perfect companion to a Lyman black powder rifle. This percussion pistol is loaded with quality features. The richly stained walnut stock complements blackened iron furniture, polished brass trigger guard and ramrod tips. The hooked patent breech takes down quickly and easily for cleaning. Just like the originals, the thimble is recessed into the rib and a detachable belt hook provides an alternative to a holster.

A spring-loaded trigger and fast 1 in 30" twist make it amazingly accurate. Per Per "Kit" Called the "Great Plains Hunter", this new model features a fast, 1 in 32" shallow groove rifle barrel. It's ideal for shooting the many types of modem projectiles available to today's black powder hunter, such as Lyman's own 'Shocker' series of bullets and sabots.

Finished Rifles. Flint Flint Left Hand Rifles. Flint 40 Great Plains Kits.

Per 54 Cal. Per 50 Cal. FUnt 50Cal. Per LH. Includes fitted tang for easy change over. Available in: Other models may require minor drilling and tapping depending on manufacturer. The 17AML fits low to the barrel with a height of. The 17ATC fits rifles that use a tall vernier type rear sight. The 17ATC has a height of. Dovetail 16 and 37 Hunting Sights Tired of the same old traditional blade and buckhorn sights found on most muzzleloaders?

These quality Lyman hunting sights will make an old gun shoot straight and true. Both have special. The 16AML folding leaf sight is fully adjustable for elevation. The 37ML white bead front sight stands out in low light conditions. All Deerstalkers have "Guaranteed" performance features such as a quiet single trigger, reliable coil mainspring and high quality Lyman hunting sights. The 24" barrel with 1 in 48" twist is ideal for roundball or maxi hunting bullets.

I have not had a chance to read the BP book by Lyman. I looked at midway this morning, thanks… I have not been on there website in a very long time. I pretty much forgot about them, yes that really did happen. I just have not gotten to that part of the reading in Reloading book by Lyman. I spent allot of money in just buying the rifle.

As you all know the best things in life are not cheap. Mostly g, g, and g Jacketed bullets. What are the top manufactures of lead bullets that are out there. I was not sure about going over g bullets at this time. Keith, thanks for the 2 links, ill check them out.Plains Pistol. As a muzzleloader, your start-up costs will also be reduced since you will not need to purchase sizing and lubricating equipment. Number Description Pc.

Lock Assembly Flint 30 Trigger Assy. The 17AML fits low to the barrel with a height of. Do not shoot conical bullets, such as the "Maxi" or Minie ball. To engage the set trigger pull the hammer back to full cock, squeeze the rear trig- ger until a "click" is felt, then carefully aim and press the front trigger.

Now tip the muzzle end of the barrel downwards so that the brass rod slides into the slug. The smart caster is well-protected from splashes of molten lead by gloves and eye protection and works in a well-lighted and well-ventilated room.