Biography Chopper Builders Handbook Pdf


Monday, November 25, 2019

Seats and Saddles This is an article I ve wanted to do for several years now and in the true tradition of the Chopper Builders Handbook we re going to show the. The Chopper Builders Handbook 'Notch-O-Matic' Tube Notcher. The Design. Back in The drawings are in format, drawn at full size on 30x42 inch. Chopper Handbook Tube Bender - Download as PDF File .pdf), Text File .txt) or read online. The Chopper Builders Handbook Tube Bender. The CBH Tube.

Chopper Builders Handbook Pdf

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The easiest frame to build is a traditional old school styled chopper since . represents a tremendous amount of work and very few do it yourself builders get this. CHOPPER BUILDERS HANDBOOK PDF - The Chopper Builders Handbook CD's. The Chopper Builders Handbook CD's. The Chopper. Chopper Builders Handbook · Proudly powered by Source: chopperhandbook. com/ pdf doc rtf xls ppt

To get this means we have to cut our cross members slightly longer, say 8. The third connection style as shown in Figure 6. Chassis Work, Volume 1: Also called the upper rear wishbones.

Chopper Handbook Tube Bender

Dick Allen Blueprint Frames ubilders There are countless ways of temporarily holding and aligning the neck-piece with the frame. As for worrying about it being locked down, I have downloaded every bit I could locate to a jump drive that I keep for these handbok of things. I told him I planned on writing a book someday when I found the time. There are two schools of thought about necks and axle adjusters. This sounds pretty primitive but believe me you can build up a nice rolled edge pretty quickly and cheaply by doing this.

Some saddle makers like a larger roll or bead at the pan edge and this can be created by first using duct tape as described and then applying a bead made from small diameter rubber fuel hose that s slit down the middle. Wrap a few more layers of tape over the hose to hold it in place.

For an even larger rolled edge you could use some small diameter tubular pipe insulation that comes already split down the middle. Remember even the very best edge banding, including Trim-Lok, will fail over time if the edges of the pan aren t deliberately dulled and blunted.

Figure 35 What we re looking for is called closed cell molded polyurethane foam and it generally comes in three basic densities, or firmnesses as some call it; soft, medium and firm. Some manufacturers make five different density grades. Usually, but not always this material will be blue or black in color. You can buy this material as thin as one eighth of an inch up to entire blocks over a foot thick.

Unlike open cell foams this material will not absorb water and in general is much more resilient. If you cut this material it behaves more like a very lightweight and almost airy putty or clay than the open cell upholstery foam most of us are familiar with. We ve listed some resources for foam at the end of this article but it s important that you do some online research and learn as much as possible about the myriad types of polymer foams that are in the marketplace.

There are literally dozens of highly specialized foams intended for specific applications including the memory foams and gels that you should become familiar with. For a low-tech project like our own regular closed cell polyurethane is more than adequate however.

You ll hear all kinds of stories about saddle making where the builder uses a fancy saw to shape the foam material. They ll often recommend an electric carving knife if you can t afford to buy one of slick Bosch foam cutters.

Actually any serrated bread knife does the same job at a fraction of the cost and in reality I ve never used anything but a sanding block to shape the saddle foam so I don t know what the big deal is about cutting tools in the first place.

One hundred grit sand paper takes off huge amounts of foam in short order and in my opinion is not only faster but also more accurate than taking out big whacks with a bread knife. When it comes to shaping the foam I guess it s each to his own and everybody will eventually come to a preferred method. In true chopper builder fashion we scavenged all the sporting goods stores in town and came up with two sleeping bag pads made from good closed cell foam. At six dollars a piece this fit our budget and saved us some time.

I don t recommend doing this as good quality store bought seat foam is better ordered from a supplier in the exact thickness you think you need but you have to do what you have to do and scrounging is half the fun. I use the original pan template to make an outline on the foam and just cut out several pieces using scissors, sized just slightly larger than the pan.

If you re in our same position using thin sections just put them together using 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Coat both the pan and the foam or subsequent layers and wait about one minute for the glue to become tacky before slapping everything together. The whole mess should be dry and workable in about thirty minutes. Make sure you spray the glue on both surfaces to be joined and not just one.

This adhesive is a mess to work with but it sure gets the job done. Unfortunately being an aerosol it will get on everything in your shop so I make a little spray booth from a big cardboard box lined with paper shopping bags.

The box seems to contain the over-spray and I change the paper-bag lining between each spray session so the pan or foam doesn t end up getting glued to the box itself. If you re laminating the foam be warned that you won t get a second chance to position it once the two pieces make even the slightest contact so be sure of your alignment and always cut the pieces larger than you really need so the edges can be trimmed down with scissors if you end up with two layers a little out of line.

Don t be afraid to try different combinations like the firmer blue foam in the center of the pan and several layers of the softer black foam in the end areas. Some makers actually build up a donut of very dense foam that surrounds the perimeter of the pan and then lay in less dense material and gels in the center. There is tremendous room here for experimentation to get a saddle that no only has a pleasing profile but also provides a nice resilient ride.

It s a shame that so many of the socalled custom saddle makers just slap on a single density of foam with a fancy leather cover and then push it off on the unsuspecting customer who has to live with a sore butt after every ride.

Chopper Handbook Tube Bender

Just because they do something on television doesn t mean that it s being done right. I know it looks pretty rough but we ll soon take care of that.

Figure 39 As I mentioned earlier closed cell foam has a consistency of a lightweight putty or clay so it very easily worked with almost any type of tool. Some makers literally carve it into shape using serrated knives while other go at it using disk sanders. For this reason as mentioned earlier I do almost all of my shaping by hand just using some grit sandpaper.

Figure 40 The photo above shows our saddle after it s initial rough shaping. This operation took less than five minutes once the adhesive had cured. Figure 41 Figure 42 It s very easy to fair in sections of foam that you ve glued in place at strategic locations to give the saddle more shape or better contours. We built up the nose and the rear areas on this pan for instance but it s hard to discern in these small pictures.

Working the saddle foam is an art form in it s own right and much more akin to sculpting than what one normally does in the upholstery trade so some people have a hard time making the transition from the automotive area into working on bike platforms. This is one reason that some of the best saddle makers in the industry have an extensive art background. Paul Cox comes immediately to mind in this respect. Many people don t realize that he was a fairly well established artist and sculptor before he gained notoriety for his saddle work.

For most first timers there is a tendency to work with to much restraint and to little foam so the saddle really ends up looking like a big pancake similar to that shown in Figure 41 which is actually only in the intermediary stage of being padded. Foam is easy to remove and shape so go bigger and thicker than you think you need and work back down to get a pleasing shape and contour. Forget about the covering at this stage and try to concentrate on shape, feel, contour and proportions.

From the time we first started up until this point we have about four hours into the project not counting the three hours we waited for the paint to dry. Here s a better close-up of the almost finished product on its way towards being ready for upholstery. There s still more padding needed but this is a good foundation.

Figure 44 I personally like to live with my work for a few days before I m completely satisfied with taking it to the next stage.

On this particular pan I m trying to decide whether or not to add a center section of softer low-density foam, roughly positioned as shown below. During the progression of the foam shaping process a quick and dirty way to check on how the final covering will look is to slip one leg of you wife s pantyhose over the saddle. You can use your own pair if you re into that type of thing or you can borrow a pair from your neighbors wife, which should be fun.

If you find that you ve got some air-space between the surface of the nylon and the foam padding beneath it means you need to add some filler material into those voids otherwise the leather cover will begin to sag and wrinkle on the finished product.

This is the beauty of closed cell foam. You can cut it, shape it, laminate it or do pretty much anything. If you accidentally create a gouge or depression you just glue in a patch and blend it into the whole. It s almost impossible to screw this up even if you try.

If you try to take shortcuts and attempt to make a pan using the wrong foam however you ll create a nightmare for yourself. Take the time to get the good stuff and do the job right the first time. A well-built saddle pan and base padding should last about fifteen years before needing refurbishing. Professional installation recommended.

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The Chopper Builders Handbook

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Please polish with sandpaper.

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Bifolds are designed for fast. Determining the degree of shaping laying out. Log in Registration. Search for. Start display at page:.

Kathleen Henry 3 years ago Views: View more. Similar documents. Every MGB body is slightly different More information.

As for worrying about it being locked down, I have downloaded every bit I could locate to a jump drive that I keep for these handbok of things. I told him I planned on writing a book someday when I found the time. There are two schools of thought about necks and axle adjusters. In time the number of pages grew and we found ourselves running chpper small website much against our wishes.

Girder forks are even easier to fabricate. On the system I had been taught to use the primary control point was the intersection of the seat post and the seat post cross-member that runs between the lower rails. Adjuster blocks like these sure do look great but they also add about six pounds of weight to a typical frame. This is the section of the frame that will eventually hold the front motor mount bar. If you look closely you can see a felt marker line drawn on the uppermost surface of the lower rail tube while the down tube is perfectly vertical.After the holes are drilled I sand the whole pan down with grit sandpaper in a palm sander to knock down the surface ridges that occur at the rivet holes.

If you plan on using some type of upholstery or leather covering over the pan you ll have to drill some holes for pop rivets and these are typically placed along a line that runs parallel, but inset one inch, to the pan perimeter. To get this means we have to cut our cross members slightly longer, say 8. This seems like a simple task at first glance but you d be amazed how many people just can t seem to find the time to make a half way accurate tracing of their own frame rails.

You can do this after the pan is shaped but it s a lot easier and faster to do it now while the plate is laid out flat.